what and Idiot...that dude need a life and a clue lol

Thats sick!!!!

I like the rear wheels...SEXY

Yeah it looks a lot better in person. I tried to capture the beauty the best I could. Also the guy did one hell of a job fixing the curb rash. Seriously they look brand spanking new. Cant wait to get the rest of them done and get some pics of them on the track, he said he would like to post some on his website.

Ok so here are some updates:

I finally got around to installing my Inner and Outer tie rods from SPL.

SPL Pro Suspension front outer tie rod ends (v5) w/Tein Z33 inner tie rods:



and both of the boots were bad so I replaced those as well...


Old oem tie rods...



Passenger OEM was bent...


Old Vs. New


New SPL Parts installed




New boots



After the install I took the car to Les Schwab to get the front aligned and here are the specs I provided them:
1/8 inch toe out
-3.5 degrees camber
Left the caster alone at stock settings

Here is the spec sheet they gave me after the alignment:


Also I lucked out and found on Zilvia a "95" M/T OBD I ECU. So I got it and installed that, no more Check light for the auto ECU but I am lacking a Air Temp Sensor so I am still throwing that light


Also Jonnie Fraz (Stealth Custom Fab) told me about a place to powder coat my wheels the flat black I wanted. So I went over to Powder Coat It ( http://www.powdercoat-it.com/ ) off Old Roseville road and met up Steve and gave him two of my wheels and a few days later he gave them back to me:

did you hear that??? it sounded like Marios one up!!! lol

Katoys (i think thats how you spell it, I cant remember) they are a dime a dozen there....literally LMAO...I know cause I was there a couple times and know people who made some mistakes lol

yeah we need to move LMAO

Wow that looks like a lot of work...and way too much thinking to build something like that. I think if someone needs an IRS they need to step up to an S-Chassis...less work less hassle and it comes with it.

Love the Mario reference lmao

Well Just a lil update:

The past weekend I installed my new SPL front tension rods (v3) on my S14. Here is a couple of pics of the install and comparison of the stock tension rods w/ES bushings.









I took the car to school and just down the street I could feel the stiffness and the response was amazing in the front steering. I kicked it out a couple of times and felt great. Cant wait to slide it for reals.

I did them in photobucket lol I was lazy

here is the link to the Solid Diff Bushing Install I did...

if anyone is interested:


SPL Solid Differential Bushing Install

http://www.mestiso.n...p?showtopic=738

Ok so I decided since I didn’t see much of any “how to’s” or “DIY” guides on replacing the stock rear differential bushings with Solid Aluminum bushings I wanted to do my own write up. Also I know many people would rather install these while the sub-fame is still in the car as I did. So here is how I did it.

***A lil tip I got from Jonnie Fraz (Stealth Custom Fab) stick your solid bushings in the freezer the night before at least to get them nice n cold so they shrink a bit and fit in easier.

***also wanna point out that there are not as many pics as I would like to have put in here, cause I was doing this alone and couldn’t just drop everything to take pic. So I appologize

First off I ordered up a set of SPL Pro Suspension Solid Differential Bushings off their website.


Once they came in and I had the free time I jacked the rear off the car off the ground and put it on a set of jack stands.

Here is what we are looking at replacing:



I preceded by unbolting the driveshaft from the diff, then the 6 bolts per side off the axles. I also made sure I unbolted one side of the rear sway bar.





(side note***) Depending on where your exhaust is located you might need to unbolt it from the rear and let it hag as well. It might be in the way of you unbolting and dropping the diff.

After removing everything attached to the diff I unbolted the two rear nuts from the diff located here:



Once they were out I put a jack under the diff to help support it, then took out the front two bolts of the diff holding it to the chassis.

Once everything was free and clear I lowered the diff using the jack and wobbling it back and forth to get the diff free from the rear of the sub-frame.

Once it was free and lowered to the ground I pulled it out from underneath the car.



Once the Diff was out I could then get complete access to the rear bushings that needed to be replaced.

A pic from the diff side:



A pic from the rear of the car:



Now begins the fun part!!!

After a few hours and consulting a few people I found the fastest and easiest way to remove these bushings.
They have a metal center that most know, with a lil rubber wrapped around that with a metal collar around the outside.

The trick is, is to cut that outside collar so you can tap the bushing out. Fastest way I found was to take a drill with a drill bit about the size diameter of the rubber and drill out the rubber at the bottom of the bushing located here:



As you can see I did here:



After I drilled out enough rubber to stick a saws-all blade in the hallowed out area I made I slid a saw blade in there with a saws-all and cut to one side of the outer collar.

I cut going in one direction like so:



You wanna make sure you keep the blade flat and you wanna just cut that collar so take your time and check often on your progress.

Then after I cut to one side I flipped the blade around and cut to the other side like so:



Once I felt like I cut through both sides I used a hammer and a punch, gave it a few whacks and the bushing popped right out. Took less than five minutes per bushing. Now originally I tried some other options that just were not working at all and it took me forever it seemed like and I got no where. But once I attacked them with the saws-all they way I just described it seriously took bout 5 minutes per bushing.

Now I have both bushings out:



***A lil tip I got from Jonnie Fraz (Stealth Custom Fab) stick your solid bushings in the freezer the night before at least to get them nice n cold so they shrink a bit and fit in easier.

I got the lil tip a little late but no worries, I stuck the bushings in a bag of ice for about an hour or so:



Once the bushings where removed, the holes the bushings came from were properly cleaned and free of any burrs and the new ones where nice n cold I got a type of press from Rob (Mestizo) that consist of two steel type of washers and a long bolt and a nut. We used this device many times to press in bushings on the lower control arms and such.

I found that inserting and pressing these bushings in from the rear of the car to the front works much easier. As shown:


Now both bushings are pressed in.





Once they were pressed in I put the front bushings on the front of the diff, there were easy to do just pressed them in with my hand.



Then I preceded to install the diff back into its rightful place in the chassis:





Once I got the diff back into the car I attached the rear axles, the driveshaft, rear sway and exhaust back where it belongs and double checked everything was nice and tight.

Here is some pics of a comparison of the old and the new:

yeah between you and Rob, you guys help me a lot...I would be totally lost with out you guys

Yes I do...they just need a good cleaning...I will let them go cheap

Hey Andrew why you cryin??? lol jk

Looks good Rob!!!

SPL SOLID DIFF MOUNT BUSHING INSTALL ON MY S14

Ok so before I had mentioned there was some clunking going on in the rear end of my car. So I changed the rear lower control arm bushings to see if it would fix the problem, which it didn’t. Although I could feel a difference there seemed to be more of a clunking but not only as I made u-turns but down a straight road when I hit bumps and it seems to be a lot more loose. After talking to Jonnie Fraz (Stealth Custom Fab) he mentioned there is an issue with the S14s with the factory diff rubber mount bushings and welded diffs creating a clunking noise in the rear. So he suggested solid diff mounts and that should fix the problem. So as soon as I could I ordered the SPL Solid Diff mount bushings.

With me finally having time off from my new job and a garage to work on my car I tackeled the project.

Here are the new bushings from SPL


Here is a pic of the stock hardware before taking stuff apart, rear of diff


Front of the diff:


When I got around to taking the drive shaft off I found that 2 of the 4 bolts were finger loose...not a good sign. Then when I moved onto taking the axles off the bolts on the driver side were almost finger loose...all 6 of them. I mentioned this to Rob (Mestizo) and he said that was probably my problem all along

here the diff is out











I put the rear bushings on ice to make them contract a lil bit so they were easier to press in.


Pressing them in with a nifty contraption that Rob and Jon had come up with








All installed back into the car and ready to roll...



Old Bushings:



a comparison:


After installing everything I went back over every nut and bolt under the car in the rear end and made sure every thing was torqued down, hopefully nothing comes loose. I will drive it around some then check everything again in due time.

Well I took it for a lil spin and got the car sideways it it felt a hell of a lot better. It is stupid stiff in the rear now!!! I turned it around several times and no clunking. I think I solved the problem...I am sure just tightening those bolts made a huge difference but the solid bushings made it way better. I just cant wait to drift it with the new set up

I will add a detailed "DIY" instruction thread later for others who wanna do this without taking the sub-frame out!!!

Yeah it just sucks we dont have more venues to choose from up here so it wouldnt be so damn expensive!!!

(minion voice) WWWHHAAAAAAATT!!!

How can you ask me the same thing?

Done yet!!!

...we cant get a lil lot much like this one and do as they do???



I am sure we could have some fun!!!

Like the title says I have a Bride MO bottom mount seat rail that I wanna sell. I Have decided I sit to high for my liking in my seat and wanna sit lower. So I will be buying a side mount rail.

The rail is obviously already assembled and ready for use...



This seat rail is 6 months old and is in great condition. Its still in the car but will take it out once sold. I am asking $175. I paid more than that from FR Sport shipped.

((EDIT)) This rail is for a 240/silvia...its in my S14

Yeah those coils look pretty sick...cant wait to hear how well they work. Please let us all know.

If you dont mind me asking...where did you get them from?

I think those wheels are gonna look good as well...any ideas on tire size yet?

yeah it was just a thought and a good idea but after thinking about it I realized that too. I'll just stick to zip ties

SO I saw this on a Zilvia Members Zenki and I kinda like this idea. he said it works great, but I wanted to get some opinions on these latches and the idea. Let me know...