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Here's some info that may be helpful to you.
(And much of it can be applied to other makes/models)
1. For a SR-5 to GT-S swap, the only year you HAVE to smog referee a swap is the 1984. Because in 1984 the 4a-ge was NOT available in the ae86 in the USA.
2. Any other engine swaps from the 'same' year as the chassis or newer is ok, as long as it's from a car (no truck motors, sorry). It just has to have all the proper smog equipment hooked up and working, and of course pass the sniffer. Then go to the referee and get your label for passing.
3. 1985-87 corolla's just need the motor, correct ecu, and smog equipment for their year model, or newer. Then they will pass just fine without going to the smog referee, as the motors were available that in those years.
4. The smog referee doesn't 'have' to give you part #'s (which he can't do at times because he doesn't have toyota's parts database). For example, the ECU.
The EASIEST way around ECU part # issues is to call or go to a toyota dealer and run your ECU part #. They will be able to print out the 'production' dates/range for that part #, and you can show that to the referee as proof. (I had to do this, my original 85 ECU didn't match the part# the referee had in all-data which is where they confirm it.)
5. If in doubt on whether or not you will pass. Run a PRE-test at ANY smog station before going in, make sure the car will pass. If not, the numbers from your failed PRE-test will help you determine what needs to be fixed before your real smog appointment.
6. If your borderline for HC's or NOX you can try the following:
To reduce NOX retard timing 2 degrees. (as long as HC #'s are low.)
To reduce HC's advance timing 2 degrees. (as long as NOX #'s are low.)
You are allowed +/- 3 degree's of timing from stock.
7. Decarbon/reduce deposits in the engine before going in: Seafoam, GM top engine cleaner, ect. It reduces NOX.
8. Run fresh oil, it will reduce HC's. Especially if it's been in there a while or through VERY hard use.
I have personally seen a fresh oil change DROP HC's by over 100 PPM when I worked at a ford dealership. (This may not happen for you, but it could...)
9. Make sure you have NO vacuum leaks. A vacuum leak from a SINGLE small vacuum hose can raise your NOX enough to fail you. It happened to me, and let me tell you. It sucks when that happens.
10. A good O2 sensor is a major asset, they're not that expensive either. It can help across the board. Stick with NGK or DENSO O2 sensors.. (I bought mine through sparkplugs.com for $33 IIRC)
11. If your CO2 #'s are low (13.x or less), you need a new catalytic converter, the efficiency is too low. Normal range is 14.x-15.x.
At least, this is what the smog referee told me when he saw my numbers dipping into the 13's when I failed on the first run thru. Replaced the cat and it passed just fine.
12. Fresh distributor cap, rotor, and sparkplugs are good. They keep the ignition firing at the right time and if they were really bad, help with HC's a slight misfire can occur with old/worn out parts.
Sparkplug/ignition wires don't need to be replaced unless they are out of the correct 'resistance' range and are breaking down. Or physically broken.
13. Make sure your cooling system is working correctly. If you have an overheating problem, or the engine runs too hot it can cause higher than normal combustion chamber temperatures. Higher combustion chamber temperatures = higher NOX levels, which can cause you to fail.
14. New or Cleaned air filter.
15. As per Appendix K. (rev. 5) of the B.A.R. smog law/rules. An 'Oil Catch Can' is 100% smog LEGAL. It is a 'Blowby Oil Seperator' and to be ignored as long as all smog equipment is hooked up and working.
I verified this 8/9/07 while at the smog referee in their manual. The smog guy was cool enough to photocopy the page for me, see here:
If I can think of anything else that can help I will post it up. Feel free to comment, offer your own advice, ect... or ask a question. I'm sure we'll let you know if it's an urban myth or untrue.
Andrew
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